Longer than
a week
When the luxury of time falls onto your lap, dream big when it comes to getting away from it all. Whether you’re seeking an exotic journey on the other side of the globe or a secluded beach, spending a week or longer in any of these enticing locales should press your reset button.
Photo: Two tourists walk past the bungalows on Crystal Cove State Beach in Laguna Beach, Calif. Kevork Djansezian/AP
Crystal Cove, Laguna Beach, Calif.
Visualize the impossible: A mellow Southern California vacation where you step back in time in a secluded beachside bungalow without ever having to venture near any part of Los Angeles or its nightmarish tangle of freeways. That’s what you’ll find when you book your cottage at Crystal Cove State Park.
Once you land at the easy-to-navigate Orange County airport, you’re less than 10 miles away from Crystal Cove, a Lilliputian beach stacked with a ramshackle mishmash of cottages that bring to mind Popeye’s village in the Robin Williams film. Crystal Cove boasts a rich and racy history that goes back to the early 1900s when its gently curved beach, not 4 miles long, stood in for exotic, tropical locations at the bidding of movie studios. The beachside movie set came complete with thatched-roof shacks. Over time, those shacks morphed into 46 slightly more permanent dwellings. Thanks to a tireless group of dedicated preservationists, each cottage remains standing.
Crystal Cove is now owned by the California State Parks. Today, more than 20 of the cottages have been painstakingly restored, some with original furnishings. One of the cabins was transformed into the thriving Beachcomber Cafe and bar at the water’s edge. On the north side of the cove, you can see some of the original structures awaiting a makeover.
Note that while the area is secluded, and the cottages have been restored, this place is packed in high season, and the rentals are charming but rustic.
Situated below the Pacific Coast Highway, at the base of a jagged bluff, between Newport to the north and Laguna Beach directly south, Crystal Cove provides miles of backcountry trails for biking and hiking. The area also is ideal for surfing and diving, not to mention dolphin and whale watching.
There’s plenty to do within a fairly short distance from Crystal Cove. Head south on the scenic Pacific Coast Highway (PCH), and in just under five minutes, you’ll find yourself in the village area of Laguna Beach, which is known for its many art galleries, boutiques, eateries and bars.
You can stay on the PCH as you continue through the last two southern Orange County beach towns — Dana Point and San Clemente, home to the California White House under President Richard Nixon. The PCH stops briefly once you enter San Diego County and drive through the beach area of the massive Marine Corps Base Camp Pendleton.
Pass the base and get back on the coastal route that takes you through a string of charming beach towns. Carlsbad, Encinitas, Cardiff-by-the-Sea and Solana Beach run together with more stunning sea views, plenty of eclectic shops, brew pubs and casual seafood eateries.
Crystal Cove State Park Historic District, #35 Crystal Cove, Newport Coast, Calif. 1-800-444-7275, www.crystalcovealliance.org.
Photo: Chincoteague ponies have been herded during the annual Pony Swim for more than 90 years. Contributed by Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce
Chincoteague Island, Va.
As a child, if you were lucky enough to read Marguerite Henry’s classic, “Misty of Chincoteague,” about a herd of shaggy wild ponies living off the coast of Virginia and Maryland, then spending a week or more in their presence might make for an ideal literary and nature lover’s vacation.
Low-key, laid-back and boasting a storybook version of unsullied beaches, dense maritime forests and lush salt marshes, Chincoteague Island lies on Virginia’s Eastern Shore, and acts as the gateway to the Virginia portion of Assateague Island, home of Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, and where the wild ponies have lived for centuries.
Come in the summer and you’ll be among the throngs who flock to the area for the annual Pony Swim in July. The festivities last for nearly a week and are highlighted by the Pony Auction. On the last day, the adult ponies swim back to Assateague Island, where they live untroubled for another year.
For those seeking a tranquil experience, the islands provide an ideal place to explore via bike or on foot. The whole 38-mile-long stretch of Assateague Island comprises a wildlife sanctuary, and claims one of the most lauded beaches on the Atlantic. A scenic boat cruise gets you up close and personal with the abundant wildlife, including the ponies, and pristine back bays and marshlands in the area. Along with crabbing, clamming, fishing, kayaking, hiking, golfing and hang gliding, Chincoteague offers several popular festivals throughout the year.
You won’t find mega resorts on the island; rather you can select from one of the many charming island cottages, bed-and-breakfasts, or one of the island’s hotels. There are even a couple of campgrounds.
Chincoteague Chamber of Commerce, 757-336-6161, www.chincoteaguechamber.com.
Photo: Rose Island Lighthouse, built in 1869, is a working lighthouse on an 18-acre island off the New England coast. Contributed by Onne van der Wal
Rose Island Lighthouse, Newport, R.I.
Consider taking on the position of temporary keeper of Rose Island Lighthouse on a craggy cliff on Narragansett Bay in Newport, R.I. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Rose Island Lighthouse museum is open to the public daily. However, once it closes, the two museum bedrooms on the first floor become available for overnight “keepers” who want to step back in time to experience a turn-of-the-century lighthouse. Note that overnight visitors participate with chores of lighthouse keeping, sleeping in the same rooms occupied by keeper families for over a hundred years. The lighthouse is accessible only by ferry or by the local lobster fishing boat.
Historic Newport provides plenty of activities, too. Newport Cliff Walk is a 3.5-mile trek that takes visitors along the back of the famous summer cottages — think 70-room mansions modeled after European palaces — that were built by the likes of Cornelius Vanderbilt II during Newport’s gilded age.
Tours of the grand homes also are available. In fact, a few of the homes in Newport now house boutique hotels. So, after the spartan digs of the lighthouse, a stay at Vanderbilt Grace, a vintage hotel that was once was the lavish home of Alfred Vanderbilt, might make for a nice change of pace. Newport also is home to the Coastal Wine Trail, a couple of breweries and the only operating rum distillery in the state.
Rose Island Lighthouse Foundation, 365 Thames St., Second Floor, Newport, R.I. 401-847-4242, www.roseislandlighthouse.org, www.newportmansions.org. Vanderbilt Grace Boutique Hotel, 41 Mary St., Newport, R.I. 401-846-6200, www.gracehotels.com.
The Rose Island Lighthouse only is accessible by ferry or by the local lobster fishing boat. Contributed by Discover Newport
Vietnam
Your first visit to Vietnam might be mapped in terms of this trilogy: Ho Chi Minh City, vibrant and teeming with culture and a good dose of sophistication; Hanoi, the capital, a study of stately old-world colonial charm among a sea of organized chaos; and the verdant Halong Bay, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Photo: A couple borrows the Saigon Central Post Office as a backdrop for their wedding photos. Vino Wong/AJC
Ho Chi Minh City
Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), or Saigon as many of the locals still refer to it, is divided into 24 districts. Base yourself around District 1 or 3, where you’ll find many of the museums, rooftop bars and eateries settled in an atmosphere crackling with excitement.
To get started, forget about a hotel breakfast; instead head outside for a taste of streetside feasting at its best. If you’re lucky, you could find yourself among locals, straddling a squatty stool in a wide alleyway lined with weathered painted buildings, and tucking into a pan of op la, which teams wobbly fried eggs with salty bits of meat littered with caramelized onions.
Then it’s off to one of the many markets in the area. In the city, you’ll find Ben Thanh Market piled with designer knockoffs, and bustling with tourists. Away from the city center, in Cholon, Saigon’s Chinatown, the massive Binh Tay market caters to locals who come for their supplies and bulk goods, and you should, too.
Don’t miss Notre Dame Saigon, a cathedral built by the French colonists in the 1800s, and the elegant Saigon Central Post Office, also built by the French around the same time.
When it’s time to leave HCMC and head north to Hanoi, hop on the Reunification Express, the train service that travels the length of the country. Comfortable, air-conditioned sleeper cars offer a ground-eye view that you can’t get from the air as you wind around curves along the coast of the South China Sea, and climb up into jungle-covered cliffs and through dense emerald mountains.
Photo: Ho Chi Minh Museum in Hanoi, down the street from his modest home and immodest tomb. Jim Auchmutey/AJC
Hanoi
While HCMC screams sexy cosmopolitan, Hanoi whispers traditional culture. This is the capital, and home to the somber Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum, which holds and displays the embalmed remains of the former leader. But to get to the soul of Hanoi, you must wander to the Old Quarter, with its rich history spanning more than 1,000 years. Over time, this warren of tiny workshops manned by skilled craftsmen evolved into a quirky, bustling shopping district that caters to locals and tourists alike. The Old Quarter also is home to many beautifully preserved temples and pagodas.
French-Vietnamese infusion is still evident in the architecture, culture, literature and food of Hanoi. Don’t be surprised to find yourself on tree-lined boulevards reminiscent of those in Paris.
Photo: Halong Bay, in the Gulf of Tonkin, offers a spectacular seascape. Vance Naumann/Austin American-Statesman
Halong Bay
This UNESCO World Heritage site is located only about 100 miles east of Hanoi, but it might as well be a universe away. The Halong Bay archipelago comprises nearly 2,000 islands, some settled, others wild and essentially undisturbed, in the Gulf of Tonkin.
Once at Halong Bay, you’ll find yourself immersed in a geological museum where you can explore a wondrous system of grottos and illuminated caves. Kayak the still waters or hop on a traditional junk cruise and glide among the many jungle-veiled limestone peaks that draw so many visitors to the site. Don’t miss the floating fishing villages where, for generations, families have worked and lived on the water. At the end of the day, take in a sunset while feasting on the stellar local cuisine.
Vietnam National Administration of Tourism, www.vietnamtourism.com.
Photo: The harbor at Nice, France. Steve Haggerty/ColorWorld/TNS
Nice, France
If you don’t mind fewer crowds, lower accommodation rates, and cooler weather, then consider traveling to Nice on the French Riviera in the off-season, which runs from November through March. The Mediterranean climate allows for mild winters with the occasional gusts of wind, which won’t keep you from enjoying scenic walks along the Promenade des Anglais, overlooking the rocky beaches of the Bay of Angels.
Even if your budget won’t allow for a stay at the crown jewel of the Promenade, Hotel Negresco, a gorgeous study of belle epoque grandeur, you can still wander inside and take in the museum-quality art exhibits for free.
You can’t visit Nice without spending time at the famous Cours Saleya, the flower and produce market in Old Town. This is the place to snap up glass vials of rose-scented sea salt, little bags of garlicky marinated olives and small hunks of lavender soap. And it’s a sure bet that the woman selling fragrant strawberries is going to draw you to her stall with her rousing rendition of “La Vie en Rose.”
The market runs from Tuesdays through Sundays but, on Mondays, the huge brocante takes over the space and becomes an antiques lovers paradise. Picture an al fresco museum where every item is for sale, from sterling flatware and Baccarat crystal, to massive selections of antique clocks and vintage hat pins.
When it comes time for lunch, snag a table at one of the many restaurants that line both sides of the Cours Saleya, and order the daily special. You can easily spend the rest of the afternoon popping in and out of the small shops that make up Old Town.
Excellent and inexpensive public transportation makes it a cinch to grab a bus and take a lazy afternoon drive up to Grasse, known as the perfume capital. If you prefer to stay close to the water, then plan day trips to the quaint coastal villages of Villefranche-sur-Mer and Menton.
Office du Tourisme et des Congrès, 5 Prom. des Anglais, 06302 Nice, France. 33-892-707-407, en.nicetourisme.com.
Photo: While the Italian Riviera village of Portofino is overrun by vacationers in high season, it offers off-season visitors plenty of much-appreciated elbow room — without sacrificing charm. Contributed by Sabine Morrow
Santa Margherita and Portofino, Italy
A short train ride from Nice offers dramatic sea views on your way to Santa Margherita, an ideal off-season Italian Riviera town that’s literally walking distance to trendy Portofino on the Ligurian Sea. Bars, cafes, restaurants and gelaterie are scattered along the seafront of this pedestrian-friendly town at the edge of the Gulf of Tigullio. As with Nice, the weather is mild in winter, hotels on the water are reasonable and, best of all, you’ll have the place to yourself. A stroll through town will net you some lovely examples of art nouveau architecture and trompe l’oeil. This is still a fishing village, so don’t miss the afternoon ritual when the fishermen row toward shore in their brightly painted wooden boats to unload their catch amid eager restaurant owners and locals.
Around the bend lies Portofino. With its gaily colored, multitiered villas resembling birthday cakes clutching the verdant hillsides, the tiny harbor village looks as precious as a movie set. For decades, this miniature fishing village has hosted its share of celebs, especially in the summer when the yachts pull into the petite harbor and drop anchor. Portofino is ideal for an afternoon of meandering through ancient gardens, sharing a glass of wine near the beach while people watching, and getting in a little high-priced shopping.
Don’t miss a visit to San Fruttuoso if you appreciate an experience out of the norm. You can’t drive in; instead, you can make the nearly three-hour hike over the hills if you have a rugged constitution, or you can relax on a 30-minute ferry ride from Santa Margherita. San Fruttuoso occupies a thumbprint of a cove beneath a mountainous bit of coastline. The isolated place has an eerie feel in the winter, which is part of its charm. It’s home to an ancient Benedictine monastery — a blend of Romanesque and medieval architecture — which sits at the water’s edge. Another popular site in San Fruttuoso is the original bronze statue of Christ of the Abyss. However, you’ll have to get into your diving gear because it’s submerged offshore about 50 feet deep.
Photo: Curringa Farm sits on 750 acres of rolling hills in the Derwent Valley on the Australian island of Tasmania. Contributed by Curringa Farm
Hobart, Tasmania
Maybe your dream vacation includes rolling up your sleeves to pitch in and help shear sheep, get a firsthand look at wool production and learn about sustainable farming. If so, then check out Curringa Farm in Hamilton, Tasmania.
Located an hour north of Hobart, the island’s capital, Curringa Farm sits on 750 acres of rolling hills in the Derwent Valley, and is run by sixth-generation farmers, Tim and Jane Parsons, who offer a taste of award-winning ecotourism.
While you can spend your days working, paddling a canoe on the property’s Lake Meadowbank and frolicking with the dogs and other farm animals, you also have the luxury of retreating to your four-star cottage, soaking in the jetted tub, then catching a sunset from your private patio.
You won’t want to miss the short drive to Mount Field National Park, its dense forests crowded with massive ferns. While hiking, don’t be surprised if you encounter some of Tasmania’s native marsupials.
Nearby Hobart was founded as a penal colony in the early 1800s. Take a couple of days and follow the Convict Trail from Hobart down to the Tasman Peninsula. The UNESCO World Heritage-listed Port Arthur Historic Site is home of the prison that closed in 1877. After exploring Convict Salt Mines and checking out world-class surfing, head back to Hobart and visit the Tasmanian Devil Conservation Park to get a look at a real Tasmanian devil.
Curringa Farm, 5831 Lyell Highway, Hamilton, Tasmania, Australia 7140. 61-03-6286-3333, www.curringafarm.com.au, www.discovertasmania.com.au.
A vacation at the Curringa Farm offers stellar views of Lake Meadowbank and the rugged bushland. Contributed by Curringa Farm
Photo: The Lodges at Gettysburg is a 63-acre private retreat that sits on one of the highest ridge lines in Gettysburg, overlooking the historic Civil War battlefield. Contributed by Lodges at Gettysburg
The Lodges at Gettysburg, Pa.
The Lodges at Gettysburg offer an exquisite, meticulously tended private retreat situated on one of the highest and most stunning ridge lines in Gettysburg, overlooking the hallowed ground where soldiers from the North and South fought and died in the most significant battle of the Civil War.
Located in proximity to the historic Gettysburg National Military Park Museum and the site of the Eisenhower National Park, the Lodges at Gettysburg offer a serene haven among 63 acres, half of which are blanketed in thick woods riddled with walking and bike trails. Whether you’re planning a family reunion or a quiet getaway for two, the Lodges at Gettysburg offer traditional guest rooms as well as beautifully appointed stand-alone lodges that range from studios to suites.
On the premises, you’ll find a stocked fishing lake for those who like to catch and release, as well as a full-service spa. Since you’re going to feel like a wet noodle afterward, you might as well end the evening by slipping into the wood-paneled Gloryridge Tavern and toast the day with a signature cocktail.
When it comes to taking in all that the area has to offer, you’ll find plenty of options. For instance, a licensed battlefield guide can give you a personal driving tour, offering up detailed information about Gettysburg and the Civil War. Die-hard Civil War aficionados shouldn’t miss the two-hour battlefield tour on horseback.
Not surprisingly, the area has a selection of ghost tours that include a trek to Sachs Covered Bridge, the oldest covered bridge in Pennsylvania, which some say is haunted.
Lodges at Gettysburg, 685 Camp Gettysburg Road, Gettysburg, Pa. 717-642-2500, www.gettysburgaccommodations.com, www.nps.gov.
Photo: An elegant hideaway since 1927, The Inn at Furnace Creek, a member of Historic Hotels of America, lies at the foot of the Funeral Mountains. Contributed by Furnace Creek Resort
Inn at Furnace Creek, Death Valley National Park, Calif.
Considered the jewel of Death Valley, the Inn at Furnace Creek was built by the Pacific Coast Borax Co. in 1927 as an attempt to save the mining company’s newly built Death Valley Railroad. The Inn’s elaborate design, with red tile roofs, stucco exteriors, archways, arcades and a tower, was inspired by the old Spanish missions strung up and down the California coast.
Along with the posh digs available at the Inn, the resort also offers its guests the Ranch at Furnace Creek, which provides an ideal family setting with cabins scattered around the Western-themed grounds. Visitors will also find an RV park and the new Fiddler’s Campground.
Death Valley, the largest national park in the lower 48 states, offers a dramatic variety of desert, sand dunes, massive alluvial fans, eerie salt formations and glorious painted canyons. Visitors to the Inn at Furnace Creek can spend time hiking, riding horses, golfing, playing bocce ball, taking a rented off-road Jeep through the desert, or lounging by the pool after a massage. Stargazers will appreciate that Death Valley National Park is designated as the largest Dark Sky National Park in the country.
Furnace Creek Resort, Calif. 190, Death Valley, Calif. 760-786-2345, www.furnacecreekresort.com, www.nps.gov.
